Dermaroller For Acne Scars – 8 Steps for a Scar-Free Face

Effectiveness and usage of dermaroller for acne scars, discussed in detail.

Once you get a break from your frustrating breakouts your acne scars don’t let you live with peace. And no doubt they make you look horrible and even way older at times. Time and again, you find yourself scuffling with your skin problems.

Anyways, the good news is that acne scars can be treated. There are multiple products and treatment procedures available to solve the problem. These include pigment gels, topical creams, chemical peels and micro needling.

This article deals with dermaroller for acne scars. Dermaroller is an effective instrument that helps you get rid of your acne scars. In this post, we intend to provide you a complete escort on the types, usage, efficacy and side effects of dermarollers.

How Does it Work?

A dermaroller works on the principle of rebuilding collagen under the skin. For this reason, it activates the skin healing process by causing mini-trauma to the epidermis (the upper layer of skin). In this way, new collagen and elastin is produced and acne scar tissues are divided and broken down revealing a fresh skin.

New York City based celebrity facialist, Joanna Vargas explains, “It is supposed to increase collagen production, erase fine lines and wrinkles and improve uneven pigment. Dermarolling can also be used to penetrate high tech ingredients such as stem cells and epidermal growth factor.”

However, she insists getting it done by an experienced technician. After few dermarolling sessions, scar tissues shrink and hyperpigmentation fades away. When the scars disappear your skin also thickens due to improved skin texture.

Besides this, dermarolling process also serves as a medium through which you can penetrate products deeper into skin for fast recovery. One such product is Vitamin C serum that works wonders in removing acne scars.

How to Choose the Best Dermaroller for Acne Scars?

When choosing a dermaroller for yourself you need to look for two things. It must be sterilized and have the right needle length according to your acne scar type.

Acne scars can be divided into two main types: depressed scars and raised scars.

Depressed scars

These are caused by loss of skin protein collagen. They are the most common type of scars that result from acne and prevent regrowth of healthy skin. Depressed scars are of 3 types:

  1. Ice Pick Scars: Deep and narrow scars that look like large, empty pores.
  2. Box Car Scars: Broad depressions in the skin with steep, defined edges.
  3. Rolling Scars: Broad depressions with rounded, sloping edges.

Raised Scars

Raised scars also known as hypertrophic scars are caused by excess scar tissue, resulting in raised areas of skin. They are less common in acne sufferers.

Raised scars cannot be treated with dermaroller while depressed scars can be treated with dermarollers. Generally, there are three main needle length divisions. The deeper the scars the longer the needle length.

  • 1.0mm for shallow acne scars
  • 1.5mm treats almost all types of acne
  • 2.0mm for deep acne scars

However, the microneedle roller varies over a range of sizes. These include 0.25mm, 0.5mm, 0.75mm, 1.0mm, 1.5mm, 2.0mm and 3.0mm. For use at home you should opt for 0.25mm-1.0mm needles. Doctors and practitioners do not recommend rollers with 1.5mm or greater needle length.

Apart from this, for different skin conditions there are different needle lengths required which are summarized in the table below:

Skin Condition Needle Length (millimeters)
Shallow acne scars 1.0mm
Deep acne scars 1.5mm
Enlarged pores 0.25-0.5mm
Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation 0.25-0.5mm
Skin discoloration 0.2-1.0mm
Sun damaged skin 0.5-1.5mm
Stretch marks 1.5-2.0mm
Surgical scars 1.5mm
Uneven skin tone and texture 1.5mm
wrinkles 0.5-1.5mm

How to Use Dermaroller?

When you opt for a derma clinic to get your skin dermarolled you’re completely safe. But if you’re carrying out this procedure at home you need to be super careful. Any carelessness might lead to unwanted infections and hazards.

We have outlined in detail the steps you need to carry out for dermarolling. Make sure you follow these.

Step 1- Sterilize Your Dermaroller

Your dermaroller must be disinfected before use. So, soak your dermaroller into 70% isopropyl alcohol for around 5-10 minutes.

Step 2- Wash Your Face

Just like dermaroller, you also need to disinfect your face. Gently cleanse your face with an acne fighting cleanser. Anyhow, if you’re using a dermaroller with needle greater than 0.5mm you should wipe your face with 70% isopropyl alcohol before the using the roller.

Step 3- Use a Numbing Cream

A little pain is usual during the process and it differs from person to person. That is why, it is recommended to apply a numbing or anesthetic cream. For needle lengths above 1.0mm you definitely need a numbing cream because needles pinpoint and draw blood that cause minute pain.

Use the numbing cream according to the instructions labelled by the manufacturers. Before you start rolling ensure that you have wiped off the cream completely.

Step 4- Dermaroll   

You need to carry out dermarolling with utmost care. The technique involves splitting your face into sections for ease. The point to remember is that avoid rolling near the eye orbital areas that include eye sockets.

  • Roll in single direction 6-8 times lifting the roller at each interval.
  • After rolling in one place, slightly adjust the roller in tilting position and roll 6-8 times.
  • Keep adjusting until you cover the entire skin.
  • Once, you’re done, repeat the process in a perpendicular direction. (Say you carried out the process vertically, now you need to repeat in horizontal order.)

Step 5 – Rinse Your Face

Wash your face thoroughly with water only and pat dry.

Step 6 – Clean Your Dermaroller

Wash your dermaroller with a dishwasher soap as it does not dissolve the protein found in blood and skin. Mix the soap and water in a container and swish the roller vigorously.

Step 7- Disinfect the Roller

Just like you sterilized the roller before the process you also need to disinfect it after use. So, again immerse it into 70% isopropyl alcohol solution.

Step 8 -Follow Basic Skincare Regimen

Since your skin becomes extra sensitive after micro-needling, you need to avoid all the chemical exfoliates and cleansers. Especially the ones that contain salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide. Use gentle moisturizers and don’t stay in the sun for long hours.

How Often Should You Dermaroll?

The frequency of dermaroll depends on the length of needles you are using. Besides, you also need to ensure if your skin has recovered from the previous session or not as skin regeneration is a slow process.

However, below is a guide on the frequency at which you should roll.

Needle Length Frequency
0.25mm Every day
0.5mm Once or twice a week
1.0mm Twice a month
1.5mm Once in every 3-4weeks
2.0mm Every 6 weeks

8 Best Dermarollers for Acne Scars

If you’re thinking of carrying out the dermaroll process at home it’s important that you choose high-quality, trusted and well-reviewed rollers. Below is a list of 8 best Dermarollers in store.

1. Linduray Skincare Anngrowy Derma Roller

Composed of 540 microneedles of 0.25mm length, this roller provides great improvement in skin and is perfect for beginners. Good for sensitive skin, it is suitable for every type of acne scar and shows great result when used with a serum.

2. Nurse Jamie Beauty Stamp Micro-Exfoliating Tool

Designed for all types of skin, Nurse Jamie’s roller gently exfoliates your skin. You only need to gently stamp the entire face 2-3 times rotating the direction of tool. Since it is a non-evasive stamp, it can be used on the scalp to stimulate hair growth.

3. Sdara Skincare Derma Roller

Made up of titanium needles this roller reduces the appearance of wrinkles, stretch marks, scars, cellulite and age spots. Use on a weekly and bi-weekly basis to get instant results.

4. Stacked Skincare Collagen Boosting Micro-roller

This safe-for-use at home dermaroller professionally smooths and soften s skin revealing a more youthful skin. Ideal for sensitive skin with 0.2mm needle, it can be used 3-5 times a week. You can use it along with skincare products to get them absorbed into your skin.

5. Sylvoon Derma Roller Kit

This roller kit includes two roller heads, one with 540 needles and the other with 180 needles to cover all the hard-to-reach areas of the face. The kit is sterilized with gamma radiation and 90% alcohol to give a professional rolling experience at home.

6. STORFIN Derma Roller System

Storfin’s derma roller stimulates blood circulation and collagen production to give you a radiant glowing skin. It’s 0.25mm titanium needles make it perfectly suitable for sensitive skin types. This can be used on other body parts except for the face.

7. Jasclair Derma Roller Kit

Comprised of Vitamin C and hyaluronic acid serum, this derma roller kit shows faster results. Its minimally invasive needle is gentle enough for first time users and gives you a plump look.  

Dermarolling Aftercare

After dermarolling session, you might experience some side effects that are very common. To avoid or heal these you must do some aftercare.

To overcome these side effects, you should take the following precautions and aftercare:

  • Use a soothing cleanser to wash your face in the following 48 hours. Don’t touch the treated area with unclean hands.
  • Avoid wearing making for at least 24 hours after the treatment procedure.
  • Opt for gentle mineral-based skincare products, especially moisturizers, as they heal the skin quicker and are also sterile.
  • You need to hydrate as often as you can as your skin becomes more drier than normal. Use Hyaluronic acid serum as it is the perfect ingredient that heals and restores moisture in your skin.
  • Avoid applying any topical creams unless they are recommended by your dermatologist.
  • Use umbrellas when you are exposed to sun and avoid unnecessary outdoor daytime exposure.
  • Also use a broad-spectrum sunscreen for acne prone skin with SPF-30.
  • Avoid use of any products that include alpha hydroxy (AHA) or beta hydroxy acids, retinol or Vitamin C for at least 2 days after the process.  

Potential Side Effects and Mistakes to Avoid

Side effects

We discussed the aftercare but let’s look at the side effects as well. The following side effects are very common. And they subside after a few days of treatment.

  • Minute tingling pain after the treatment procedure which is normal.
  • Temporary erythema which means redness. This usually disappears within a few hours. However, if you’re using longer needles, this might take a day.
  • Minor swelling and inflammation that occurs due to firm pressure whilst rolling. This is more common in those who have sensitive skin.
  • As skin tissues are broken down, your skin becomes sensitive to the sun for few days. So, you should avoid long sun exposure and use sun screens.

Apart from these, there are disadvantages that are less common but serious. They are listed below:

  • The most serious side effect of dermarolling is catching an infection if you don not use a disinfected roller.
  • Temporary bleeding occurs when you roll aggressively. This usually stops after the treatment. To avoid bleeding you should apply less pressure.
  • Temporary hyperpigmentation occurs in dark skinned people. This is normally caused by exposing the dermarolled skin to the sun rays too soon.
  • Skins that are hypersensitive might experience itching, rashes, raised bumps and hives. This usually clears up on its own.

Harmful Dermarolling Mistakes You Should Avoid  

Following are the mistakes that you need to avoid during dermarolling:

  • If you suffer from some skin condition or disorder such as eczema, hives, psoriasis and so on, do not dermaroll your skin.
  • Be very gentle while using the roller. Exert low pressure as rolling aggressively can lead to skin irritation.
  • Do not apply make-up, sun screen or tanning lotion right after the treatment. You should wait for at least two days.
  • Avoid skincare products with harsh ingredients such as hydroquinone, AHA/BHA, parabens and fragrances.
  • Do not dermaroll if you have cold sores. Wait till you recover fully otherwise, this will trigger a virus outbreak.
  • Do not go for dermarolling treatment if you have gone through chemical peels, laser, radiation and microdermabrasion treatment. This will only result in itching, dryness and irritation.
  • If you are on some sort of medication you should consult the doctor before opting for dermarolling procedure. Especially if you consume drugs that cause sun sensitivity, hypersensitivity or are blood thinning and blood pressure medicines.
  • Never share your roller as it contains chances of infections being transferred.
  • Do not use dermarollers that have needles made of any metal other than stainless steel or titanium.

As long as you follow all the instructions, derma rolling can be a great skin renewing experience that will vanish all your acne scars.

Sheikh has been blogging regularly at CAA for 4 years. He spends majority of his time studying health and technology or participating in discussions about these niches (online or offline).


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